Featured Destination: The Geographic Center of China

The vast majority of people do not know where the exact geographical center of China is located, and many people have probably never even thought to ask. The reason why the location is not very well-known is because it happens to be right in the middle of one of the poorest counties in the nation, far from any Chinese-speaking community, in the middle of Dongxiang Minority Autonomous County (东乡族自治县）.

For those of you who have never heard of the Dongxiang people, they are a Muslim minority who speak their own native language at home and in their communities. There are about 500,000 Dongxiang in China, and most of them live in the rugged mountains in and around Dongxiang County, which is part of the larger Linxia Hui Autonomous Prefecture.

Dongxiang County is almost 100% mountainous. The altitude ranges from about 1600 m along the banks of the Yellow River up to 2600 m on the highest peaks. Almost all major roads in the county and the towns with the most people are located on top of the mountain ridges. The ridges are rounded enough for there to be villages and highways, but the valleys are often too narrow and steep for either houses or any kind of road. So it is an interesting place to visit!

To get to Suonanba (锁南坝）, the largest town and commercial center of Dongxiang County, simply take a bus from the Lanzhou South Bus Station (兰州汽车南站）．The drive is spectacular at times, as the road follows the top of the ridge all the way to town, and the trip should take 2-3 hours (20 RMB).

To get from Suonanba to the Geographic Center of China, you will need to hire a local taxi or private car (there are many around) to take you to the village of Dongling (董岭), located about 30 km north of Suonanba on top of a high mountain ridge (you will be driving on top of the mountains the entire time!). When you arrive in Dongling, it will be easy to see the odd-shaped tower sitting on top of the mountain just a short walk away. That's the marker for the Center of China.

Another way to return to Lanzhou (or to come to Dongxiang) is through the city of Liujiaxia (刘家峡), which is the starting point for trips to the Buddhist grottoes of Bingling Si (see your Lonely Planet). There are a few buses every day (very few!) from Suonanba to Liujiaxia and the trip covers about 60 km and takes 2-3 hours. From Liujiaxia it would be possible to hire a taxi to take you up to Dongling (30 km) and on to Suonanba.

Here are some more pictures from around Dongxiang County: